![]() Reading about the method, it seemed the mask was only necessary to help with getting the glue off, so I decided to go naked on the next larger experiment. The pinstriping mask seemed to be pulled by the router bit and then retracted behind the line I wanted to keep. Shelf liner mask helped in some places and frayed significantly in others. This is kind of an art and sure that I could get better over time.įirst small trial with two different masks on different sections was good and bad. I used some popsicle sticks to spread the glue. I want to start using MDO, but want to resolve the mask issue at the same time.įound the elmers in a quart at Office Depot. Cabinet door used shelf liner for the ford emblem, but the lettering at the bottom had to be hand painted due to pulling up of the shelf liner. For the corian, I ended up just painting after the fact then sanding the surface spray off. I attached a cabinet door and corian project pictures. Most of my work to date has been in hard maple, basswood, cabinet doors and corian. Something more paper like the blue painter tape seems what I need. With exception of the blue paint tape all of the stuff that I tried has a glue like layer that gets pulled by the router bit. My problem is that the edge is always ragged and in smaller parts it pulls away from the material being routed. I have heard that Avery makes something, but don't know a number or place to buy in southeast michigan. I have tried shelf liner, blue paint tape and a product called "Stickey Mickey" used by body shops for custom paint masking. ![]() I know that upcut is probably my first mistake and will change that next week. My normal 1/8" diameter mill is a Whiteside router bit with upcut. ![]() I use pocket milling to create the routed segments. One of my biggest hurdles is mask to put over the surface so I can paint the routed segments. ![]() Machine only has a surface area of 16" Y by 24" X. I have a CNC router and am just getting into smaller signs. ![]()
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